One thing I really wanted to challenge ourselves with on this trip was navigating through ice, so it was off to Tracy Arm, which is a 20 mile long ice-filled (and occasionally ice-choked) inlet that ends in the North and South Sawyer Glaciers. We were not disappointed.
Here is Sue's official report:
We arrived at Tracy Arm cove after a nice ride from Pack Creek. On the way, we glimpsed our first icebergs floating around the inlets to Tracy and Endicott Arms. Cool!
An early morning transit from Pack Creek to the Tracy Arm anchorage at the entrance to the inlet.
First view of Sumdum Glacier in Endicott Arm (South of Tracy Arm):
Starting our ice watch:
After anchoring, we dispatched the dinghy and explored a little beach that had great views of the entrance to the Tracy Arm and all the icebergs floating around. We also dinghied over to a smaller berg and tied up to it briefly. Who knew a piece of ice could be so beautiful and interesting? The cruiser thing to do is scoop some up and use the ice for your afternoon cocktails. We of course tried this and decided the ice did taste better and lasted longer than our normal ice. (Author’s note – this conclusion came after some quantity of scotch was drank so take it for what you will).
Ice melting on the beach:
Stocking up on iceberg cubes:
The next morning we got an early start and headed up the Arm towards North Sawyer glacier. We had heard two boats discussing the ice situation and they said Endicott and South Sawyer were fairly packed in with ice and North Sawyer was the best bet for getting up close. It was a 50 mile round trip up the arm from the anchorage and back. As we headed further up we saw more and more icebergs floating around.
A poodle-berg:
Our farthest point North on this trip:
Though we have a stout heavy steel boat, we have only one propeller (and
no spares) so we had to be vigilant and cautious in not getting to close to the really thick ice pack. Most of the bigger bergs were easy to spot but the little guys, near
the water line were harder to see. As we got closer to the glacier we had one
last turn and then were only about a mile away.
In front of us lay a carpet of
big and small icebergs that we slowly started to pick our way through. This
required one of us to slowly steer around the big ice and the other to stand at
the bow pushing the smaller bergs out of the way.
We crept along and for awhile
it seemed too clogged up. But we kept going and suddenly saw a fairly clear
path and then there we were. Just us and the glacier. Wow! We got to about .4
miles of it and turned off the engine to enjoy the sounds and have lunch.
Open water and a clear view to North Sawyer Glacier:
North Sawyer Glacier:
Kona was not particularly impressed:
Midway through we suddenly heard a sharp crack and saw a massive sheet of ice crash down off the face of the glacier and into the water (calving). A thunderous roar filled the fjord, along with a large wave and we got nervous. Pete started the engine (just in case) but the wave dampened quickly and we continued to chill out. We witnessed another calving, almost as large as the first, before turning around and heading home.
Working back through the ice:
As we left, a bigger tour boat from Juneau was coming in – good timing for a couple of reasons. Headed home the ice seemed a bit less congested and we were making decent progress. But then the boat that had arrived was now leaving and called us on the radio and asked if they cleared a path would we want to follow. We jumped at the chance and said yes. The only problem was he was a catamaran and the path he made wasn’t as clear as a monohull would have been. But we followed him anyway and cruised through a congested area fairly quickly. Chunks of ice bounced off our hull as we struggled to keep close behind the tour boat before his path through the ice closed up behind him (how much cooler is it to say that scratch was caused by an iceberg rather than a dock) but I’m pleased to say we escaped mostly unscathed. The other amazing thing was seeing cruise ships in the fjords. They look tremendous in these narrow canyons it is definitely amazing to see along w/all the people crowding the rails.
The return trip:
Later that night, while relaxing on the back deck, we witnessed another iceberg drama. There was a large one (about the size of a small house) that had grounded on a large rock by our anchorage. As we sat there, the tide was dropping, and the iceberg suddenly cracked in half and disintegrated in front of our eyes as it made a dying roar. Extraordinary end to an extraordinary day.
Relaxing back at the Tracy Arm Cove anchorage:
Kona relaxing extra hard:
Couple of neighbors at Tracy Arm Cove anchorage:
Some stragglers outside Tracy Arm on our way to Warm Springs bay:
This one is the size of an apartment building:
On to Warm Springs Bay... and hot springs!
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