Sunday, July 21, 2019

Maltipi to Kwatsi Bay, July 11th-12th

Sue: The journey from Maltipi to Kwatsi Bay was incredible. Beautiful sunshine, milky green colored water from glacier runoffs, mountains on all sides and a handful of boats seen. Perfection. 










Kwatsi is a surprisingly roomy little anchorage nestled in a small cove surrounded by sheer cliffs and mountains all around. Many of the anchorages and inlets here are like this, and wind is blocked on almost all sides making for water like glass and amazing reflections of the surrounding shoreline. There is small dock at the mouth of the cove that can accomodate a few boats (we chose to anchor), and the owners pointed us towards a nice hike up to one of the many waterfalls emptying into the cove. -PB




Once anchored, we met up with another couple that had just arrived and ended up going ashore to hike to a waterfall. Aside from them, there were also 3 other boats rafted up but we didn't see much of them. But they do show up later in our travels. We also laid crab & prawn traps but struck out on both. We spent a lot of time lying out on the back deck staring up at the beautiful scenery. Kept the windows open at night so we could fall asleep to the sound of waterfalls. It really doesn't get much better than that. 







Clamato Bloody Mary's and garlic prawn appetizers - so good!




Waiting for more prawns:











Blind Channel to Matilpi, July 10th-11th

We awoke the next morning to gray skies & gusty winds. We had two more rapids to go through so we had to leave fairly early. We were a little concerned about going through Whirlpool rapids (the last of the two) as we were going to arrive well after slack water. Luckily, we cruised right through, with two bald eagles sitting right next to each other, watching our transit. We had originally planned to stop at an anchorage right after the rapids however as we had the current with us we decided to power through Johnstone straits, and headed to a little anchorage known locally as Maltipi. This is the site of a native village that has long since been abandoned. Like many old native village sites, there was a shell midden beach (made up of crushed shells from generations of shellfish eating). 

Sue: Shortly after arriving Pete set out the crab & prawn traps. We had a nice dinner, watched a sail boat anchor with a lot of kids on it (must have been a sailing class from Seattle) and settled in to watch a movie. Right before we went to sleep, Pete went up to check the traps as you could see both of them from the boat. Unfortunately, the prawn trap wasn't there. It was after 10 and getting quite dark. Pete gave it up to being lost to the strong current in the channel outside the anchorage and said we should look for it in the morning. The thought of no more prawns (gasp!) was not one I cared to entertain so I insisted we go out on a rescue operation and look for it now. We quickly got into the dinghy and in the fading light zipped around looking for the red buoy, which I happened to know from my recent astronomy class, was a color you couldn't see well in the dark. We zipped over and around and lucky for us Pete spotted the buoy in the darkening gloom. It even had a few prawns in it when we picked it up - happy ending. 

As we head further North, the scenery is getting outrageously beautiful!



Exploring in the dinghy:




Breakfast...


April Point to Blind Channel, July 9th-10th

This leg took us through Discovery Passage. This is the path that most of the commercial traffic takes headed North or Southbound. We saw very little traffic this day, and the weather was spectacular. A nice easy ride with the current behind us most of the way.




Our friend Marty recommended Blind Channel marina as an overnight stop so we checked it out. This was the perfect little overnight for us, with a small se6t of docks, a well stocked little store, great restaurant, and great hiking trails. -PB

From Sue:

Thank you Marty! Blind Channel Resort was perfect. We got there mid-afternoon and immediately our neighbors started inquiring about our boat & journey. We especially enjoyed meeting Tom and his crew on At Ease from Idaho. We exchanged stories, weather updates and boat tours. That night we treated ourselves to dinner at the german-inspired restaurant. Now, I've never been one to wax poetic regarding schnitzel however, I have to say, this was some of the best tasting I've had. Along w/the extremely friendly service & the chance to get a load of laundry done, this was an overall great stop.









A walk in the woods:












Wednesday, July 17, 2019

Desolation Sound to April Pointe Marina, July 8th-9th


From Sue:
Though the weather forecast was for a sunny day the clouds chose not to burn off. We spent the morning doing a little trip planning to see if we would have enough time to make it up to up to Alaska. After deciding that it was possible, we looked around the anchorage (and all the fantastic plastic boats) and thought, hey let’s keep moving. But first Pete went to check the crab and prawn pots and lucky for us, we got our first good catch of the trip. 44 spotted prawns crawled into our pot overnight, and after spending a bit of time trying to remember how to clean, peel & cook them we had them all prepped for dinner.

Our next transit would take us to April Pointe to get situated closer to Seymour Narrows so we could time the currents to our advantage.

From Pete:
The area between the middle of Vancouver Island and the mainland (between the Straits of Georgia and Queen Charlotte Sound) is packed with islands and inlets, and between these islands and inlets the current flows with the incoming and outgoing tides. Currents at some of the narrower passes that fill and drain larger bays and inlets can reach 12-14 knots and create treacherous rapids at max current. There are two ebbs and two floods each day, plus the effect of winds and other local conditions to consider when planning a transit through these various narrows and straits.

From Sue:
For our transit from Desolation Sound to April Pointe (where we would wait for favorable current conditions before going through Seymour narrows) showed thirty seven miles - about 5 hours going our normal cruising speed. We’d arrive just in time for dinner – perfect. And so everything was for most of the trip. We saw whales breaching in the distance, bald eagles flying around, and the sun decided to join us. Treated ourselves to underway showers. But then as we rounded Cape Mudge on Quadra Island we noticed another power boat headed right to the shore. What the heck was he doing? Then we hit the current. Our speed dropped from 7.0 knots down to 2.0. Looking at one of the many cruising books we have we read up on the nasty Discovery Passage current that we were now fighting. It said if you hug the shoreline there are back eddies that can help propel you. We watched the other power boat go flying by us (running about 100 feet off the shoreline) into the distant horizon. We eventually followed his lead and got a bit of a ride on the back eddy close to shore, though we realize now we should do all our homework prior to leaving. Even with the back eddy close to shore, we had to fight the current for the last hour or so of the journey. It was a slow, whirlpooly slog that keeps you on edge and is very tiring. 

Once in the harbor, we just wanted to drop the hook and make dinner. But that was not to be so easy either. The bottom was fouled w/kelp and our anchor could not get a good hold. We tried 3 times before finally giving up and headed over to the little marina with the giant yachts. 


After pulling up next to the mini-mega yacht called Galilee (as that seemed fitting) I whipped up a delicious dinner of Shrimp Scampi and we sat and enjoyed our well-earned meal. We also took a little walk on shore to the April Pointe Resort and had a look around. The place is nice but mostly empty as the fishing season doesn’t start for another week. 




There are a couple of  really big mega yachts here including Huntress which is a 180’ steel hulled mega yacht owned by a guy who used to own the Seattle Mariners (and has a net worth around $2 billion). Huntress charters out at $250,000 per week (low season)! 


Feeling like a small fish in a big pond at this marina as we sit and wait for the tide to slack at Seymour Narrows so we can safely pass through. If all goes well we should be through Johnstone Straits and into the Broughtons in a day or so.

First prawn catch, July 8th.

The morning of our trip from Prideaux Haven Anchorage in Desolation Sound, I ran back out to Mary Island to pull up our prawn trap which had been soaking overnight. 


We've had our best luck catching prawns with the trap sitting in 250 -300 ft of water near a ledge, drop off. We bait our trap with shrimp bait pellets, which are nice and oily to create a scent trail that attracts the little buggers to the trap. I have the trap weighted with a few pounds of zinc to help it stay anchored securely on the bottom when the current is running. The line is also weighted so that it doesn't float on the surface where it could get run over by another boat. The surface end of the line has two buoys, one yellow that identifies it as a  prawn trap, and an additional orange float to help with visibility and also to float the trap so the whole rig doesn't end up underwater if the trap comes loose from the bottom and drifts into deeper water (this has happened to us more than once).

Needless to say, the rig is a whole lot easier going down than it is hauling up by hand. I have an overhead block on the Kamahele, but when retrieving from the dinghy it's a straight pull up from the bottom and a serious workout.

So, it's always very satisfying to get a good batch. This mornings haul netted just under 4 dozen very nice spotted prawns 😋



Kona is very interested in the whole prawn thing...




Garlic prawn pasta and veggies